California Central East
Mono Hot Springs
Aahhh!! … Oooooh… YEeeeeeEEES!!!! … sharing info since 1995
Aahhh!! … Oooooh… YEeeeeeEEES!!!! … sharing info since 1995
California Central East
07/04/10 – We just returned today from four nights at Mono Hot Springs. At check-in we were greeted by gunfire. Someone on the staff was using a bb gun to scare a varmint out of somebody’s cabin. There was another surprise when we checked in. We were told the restaurant would be closed all day the next day because of a “staffing problem.”
We had reserved one of the “deluxe” cabins, and let me tell you, their version of deluxe is not my version of deluxe.
The back of the bathroom door was covered in graffiti. (“Mark Pooped Here 7-27-98.”) There was no sink in the bathroom. The shower was across the road.
The kitchen sink had bathroom faucets. The hot water sputtered intermittently from the faucet with a great deal of groaning, thumping and high-pitched whistling.
In the “fully-stocked kitchen” there was no toaster, let alone a microwave. We had been told there was a coffeemaker. In one of the cabinets we found a metal percolator from the 50s. Luckily we had brought our Melitta drip coffee system.
This was advertised as a cabin with electricity. Electricity at Mono Hot Springs means one bare chain-yanking light bulb in the ceiling of every room, but no actual electrical outlets. At night, the weird yellow light of the energy-saving bulbs was too dim to read by.
The cabin had long cracks in the wall. At night I heard critters scampering in the attic. I kept expecting a little furry face to peer at me from one of the many gaps in the ceiling.
The front entrance of our cabin was unusable because there was no path in the weed-choked yard leading up to it. The vertical support beams of the cute little porch rooftop actually leaned away from the cabin and toward the road.
The slamming, creaking screen door was full of holes. This meant the Israeli-trained mosquitoes could get into the cabin. Forget about natural, herbal, no-DEET bug spray. We finally had to throw political correctness aside and resort to Deep Woods Off.
The international section of the restaurant menu had two entrees: spaghetti and meatballs and buffalo burgers. They were out of buffalo.
We ordered the salmon and it was still raw inside. (I’m guessing it was not completely defrosted.) For two entrees, three soft drinks, and one dessert we paid $45.
When the restaurant re-opened after its staffing problem shut-down, I ordered a BLT for lunch. They didn’t have any bacon. The people at the next table sent their burgers back because they were too rare. After that, we ate the food we brought with us and bought some groceries at the general store.
In the bathhouse the spring water is pumped into individual ancient rusty claw foot tubs through backyard-type spigots. There are two modern-looking deep, narrow, tile covered soaking tubs that seem like a steep quality upgrade, until you look closely and see flakes of the peeling ceiling paint in the tub.
There is an outdoor spa that looks like a Jacuzzi, except the underwater jets and lights don’t work. If you touch the water that has spilled out onto the patio, you will get a small electrical shock.
There is plenty of outdoor magic to make up for the indoor problems. Two people in our party hiked to nearby Doris Lake. The lake is deep enough for divers to leap off the surrounding cliffs, but shallow enough that the water is warm and comfortable for swimming.
The winter runoff this year turned the San Joaquin River, which flows through the camp, into a wild flooding whitewater stampede. Because of that, the upper campground is closed and the lower campground just opened recently.
The resort is surrounded by beautiful meadows, watched over by the snow-covered mountains. Snow banks are visible in the dark forests surrounding the meadows full of wildflowers in bloom.
We saw the alpenglow on the mountains at sunset. At night we saw the Milky Way, shooting stars, and the International Space Station. We made S’mores in the little stone fire circle outside our door. The conclusion about Mono Hot Springs? Inside: bad. Outside: good.
07/04/10 – We just returned today from four nights at Mono Hot Springs. At check-in we were greeted by gunfire. Someone on the staff was using a bb gun to scare a varmint out of somebody’s cabin. There was another surprise when we checked in. We were told the restaurant would be closed all day the next day because of a “staffing problem.”
We had reserved one of the “deluxe” cabins, and let me tell you, their version of deluxe is not my version of deluxe.
The back of the bathroom door was covered in graffiti. (“Mark Pooped Here 7-27-98.”) There was no sink in the bathroom. The shower was across the road.
The kitchen sink had bathroom faucets. The hot water sputtered intermittently from the faucet with a great deal of groaning, thumping and high-pitched whistling.
In the “fully-stocked kitchen” there was no toaster, let alone a microwave. We had been told there was a coffeemaker. In one of the cabinets we found a metal percolator from the 50s. Luckily we had brought our Melitta drip coffee system.
This was advertised as a cabin with electricity. Electricity at Mono Hot Springs means one bare chain-yanking light bulb in the ceiling of every room, but no actual electrical outlets. At night, the weird yellow light of the energy-saving bulbs was too dim to read by.
The cabin had long cracks in the wall. At night I heard critters scampering in the attic. I kept expecting a little furry face to peer at me from one of the many gaps in the ceiling.
The front entrance of our cabin was unusable because there was no path in the weed-choked yard leading up to it. The vertical support beams of the cute little porch rooftop actually leaned away from the cabin and toward the road.
The slamming, creaking screen door was full of holes. This meant the Israeli-trained mosquitoes could get into the cabin. Forget about natural, herbal, no-DEET bug spray. We finally had to throw political correctness aside and resort to Deep Woods Off.
The international section of the restaurant menu had two entrees: spaghetti and meatballs and buffalo burgers. They were out of buffalo.
We ordered the salmon and it was still raw inside. (I’m guessing it was not completely defrosted.) For two entrees, three soft drinks, and one dessert we paid $45.
When the restaurant re-opened after its staffing problem shut-down, I ordered a BLT for lunch. They didn’t have any bacon. The people at the next table sent their burgers back because they were too rare. After that, we ate the food we brought with us and bought some groceries at the general store.
In the bathhouse the spring water is pumped into individual ancient rusty claw foot tubs through backyard-type spigots. There are two modern-looking deep, narrow, tile covered soaking tubs that seem like a steep quality upgrade, until you look closely and see flakes of the peeling ceiling paint in the tub.
There is an outdoor spa that looks like a Jacuzzi, except the underwater jets and lights don’t work. If you touch the water that has spilled out onto the patio, you will get a small electrical shock.
There is plenty of outdoor magic to make up for the indoor problems. Two people in our party hiked to nearby Doris Lake. The lake is deep enough for divers to leap off the surrounding cliffs, but shallow enough that the water is warm and comfortable for swimming.
The winter runoff this year turned the San Joaquin River, which flows through the camp, into a wild flooding whitewater stampede. Because of that, the upper campground is closed and the lower campground just opened recently.
The resort is surrounded by beautiful meadows, watched over by the snow-covered mountains. Snow banks are visible in the dark forests surrounding the meadows full of wildflowers in bloom.
We saw the alpenglow on the mountains at sunset. At night we saw the Milky Way, shooting stars, and the International Space Station. We made S’mores in the little stone fire circle outside our door. The conclusion about Mono Hot Springs? Inside: bad. Outside: good.
Recently visited Mono Hot Springs.
If you are looking for a serene experience, look elsewhere. The rundown “resort” seemed rundown and junky. There were lots of 4x4s and high impact campers. Subsequently, the hiking trails were virtually empty which was nice. Doris Lake was good swimming. Tule Lake was scenic but overgrown, well on its way to becoming a meadow.
Was surprised that the cabins did not have “bear-proofed” garbage cans which seems to attract bears to the area. Despite the relative remoteness, it was lacking. The drive in was awesome, the “resort” was like a trailer park.
09/26/2002- Tecopa Hot Springs near the southern tip of Death Valley. There I stay at… ready for this…Delight’s Tecopa Cabana. HAHA!! They recently got new owners who changed the name a bit and little by little are fixing the place up. I’ve stayed at Delight’s 3 or 4 times now. Not fancy but I like it. They have 4 hot pools of different temperatures. Well, you may know all about this place so I wont elaborate unless you ask for more information. Anyway after two days there Im coming back down south and going over to Desert Hot Springs. I LOVE heat and that not only includes hot springs but saunas and steamrooms also. Thanks again for all your work on the hot springs information.
Dale Miller, USA
02/24/2002-
Dear Terry,
Thanks for the historical information. The Geocities site I had seen before. I think what you are asking for here, is my comment on the development issues in Tecopa area?
LOL! I could (and MAY!!) write a book!!!
First, let me answer the questions inherent in the two missives. First, Supervisor Dorame’s hope to get a private concern to take over the County Baths has been set aside for the moment. The County Baths continue to be administered and maintained by Inyo County … to the extent that they are. This is going to continue to be true for at least a while yet.
There are two cafes in Shoshone — The Red Buggy/Crowbar Saloon and C’est Si Bon, a delightful french cafe. There continue to be two churches in the area — a Catholic church in an exquisite setting up on the mudhills and an interfaith church in “downtown” Tecopa.
Tecopa (total population: 204) breaks down into several areas: the Hot Springs area, the “downtown” area, including Tecopa Heights (where most of the permanent residents live) and finally, an exquisite hidden oasis and working date ranch called China Ranch. As of this writing, indeed much of Tecopa IS a ragtag assemblage of god-awful trailers, junked cars, walls built out of old refrigerators, etc. This condition is, to a large extent, perpetuated by the permanent residents in Tecopa Heights and downtown Tecopa. It was they who defeated Supervisor Dorame’s most recent hope to bring in a private concessionaire to run the County Park & Baths.
Meanwhile, the private resorts have all recently changed ownership/management. Tremendous work is presently ongoing to clean, repair, rebuild. This includes downtown Tecopa (Tecopa Trading Post) where, as of last week, the garbage is being hauled away by volunteers, the laundromat has been restored to working order and the cafe is being cleaned and remodeled for reopening in the fall.
There is no new development anticipated in this area…. only redevelopment and raising of the standards of what is already here.
Frankly, what has been dragging the entire area down economically and aesthetically, is the County Park and Baths. This condition cannot continue indefinitely, nor do I expect it will, as the BLM develops the exquisite landscape, restores the Amargosa River, lays in new trails, etc. It is the intention of all of us who are interested in redeveloping this area, that we take the desert back from those who have used it as their own private estates for living in ways that would be unacceptable in larger towns, accumulating garbage, using the resources but giving little back. This area is a magnificent resource which belongs to the entire country — not just a select group who would prefer to be left alone to live in their squalid preference. In order to make this available, we are going to have to clean it up. And that is exactly what we are presently doing. And yes, there is a tremendous lot of clean up to do!
In order to make this area accessible to visitors, acceptable overnight accommodations must be provided. A support infrastructure must be present and a local economy developed to provide necessary services. When I first arrived here in November, there were 6 jobs in the whole township and they all paid minimum wage. The number of jobs has tripled in 4 months (ie, there are now some 18 jobs!!). The occupancy rates are going up, the income is being put back into developing the accommodations. It’s slow — but it is happening. And we do have plans which we hope will continue to attract new visitors to the area — visitors who have every right to expect that those accommodations will be up to the standards of places from which they come.
Sorry for bending your ear! Most of us desert dwellers are very passionate about the desert! I just happen to have a BA in Sociology, a Masters in Urban and Environmental Planning …. and a massage certificate!
Warm regards and thanks for asking!
Karin Pine, USA
11/27/1999- Just a little history for your info.
Some time back the county of Inyo was making a decision on whether to let the hot spring be developed by a private concern. Whether that came about I don’t know.
The last time I was there it was overdeveloped as far as camping and useage. Too many permanent facilities and a riff raff apearance. That was about three years ago so that may have changed. That is a fragile ecology in that area plus there is where the old Squaw Hole use to be a private development which was started by Bloss Elias about 40 years ago now exists.
The first private development was done at what was called the Tecopa Hot Spring Resort by Harry Rosenberg.Sr.. The first building at the County hot springs were put in by Paulson and March Trucking Co. Who hauled ores from the variouse mines.They also put in the first paved road into Tecopa. It was well into the 40s before the road to the hot springs was paved.
For those who wish it there are churches in both Tecopa and Shoshone. The one in Shoshone is Catholic and the one in Tecopa is prodicent(sp?). There was a cafe in Tecopa unknow if still functioning. There is a cafe in Shoshone. If they take the road to Vegas there are also stores, cafe and so on in Pahrupmp Valley.
Another piece of info is that when they put the road into Pahrump through Tecopa they origionally wanted to name it the Harry Rosenberg Hwy. much as the one out of Shoshone is called the Charles Brown Hwy.. Harry Rosenberg said No that it should be called the present name. That was the route which was taken by Fremont and his party. The reason Resting Spings is called that is because it is where the group rested. That I believe is now private property. When Harry Rosenberg first came there he was a friend of Chief Tecopa and also knew Bob Lee who was the last of the leaders of the Pautes that lived in the area. This you would need to confirm with people in the area that still live there that are Paute. Bob Lee told me that Pa meant water but others who have researched it say not so.
The town of Tecopa was origionally owned by Jim Francis who had a home in Tecopa. When I first went there in the 40s Sharp and Fellows was the company that was taking the steel tracks up that had been requisitioned by the government. Some of the Engines of the Tohnapah and Tide Water Rail Road were sent to South America. There was one sitting right in the triangle that use to be in Tecopa for a long time. If you check around there may be people with pictures.
Concerning the springs, the first one covered is now the mens pool. Back of the hill behind the Tecopa Hot Springs Resort I belive it is now called is what is now described as a tank for the spring back there. It was covered over by the minerals accumilated over the years. Harry Rosenberg dug it out and opened it up. It is a hotter spring than the two at the hot springs the county has. All the land from across the road from the resort was originally bought by him and ran over that hill and past that spring.
Just before Tecopa coming from the springs is a cold water spring that use to be the swimming pool for Tecopa. Where the water ran down to rhe RR track there was a bridge that was taken out and Ed Grimshaw & Fran Mcquery who took over the store and beer and wine bar that was in Tecopa dammed it up. For years it was a way point for the migrating duck and geese. If you have never been down the Amargosa Canyon out of Tecopa take a hike into it. It is beautiful down there. It is now a nature preserve so you may have to get permission. AS a kid I have been quite a ways down there. One of the Old timers even started to build a house down there out of Tuffa. Wouldn’t suggest putting the canyon on the history and net as it could be ruined by uncaring people.
Oh one thing more the origional buildings at the resort are build out of ties from the old T&T and the fireplace at the house is one that was built by using a government pamplet. Harry’s wife Gladys gathered the rocks with his help and built it stone by stone. Origionally the building closest the road had a cafe in it also. Enough. Take care.
07/29/1998- Just a little note. Accessed your site today, great site. Tecopa is in a world of change.
Great Site again
Dave, USA
07/07/2000- Spent the july 4th weekend @mono-absolutely beautiful country and wonderful folks. Six natural hot springs are located within an easy walk and the three that we tried were of varing size and temperature all enjoy the beautiful surroundings. The smaller cabins are basic and tidy and the larger stone cabins are spacious. The nearby hiking opportunities are many (Ansel Adams and the John Muir Wilderness) and the fishing was good from what we saw and heard. This is a kid and dog friendly spot. A great getaway!
03/08/2000- I haven’t been there in probably eight years or so, but it was a great experience. Every Memorial Day and Labor Day, a medium size group of people would make the pilgramage from Merced where we were stationed in the Air Force. Camping is great, trails to lakes nice and mostly without a lot of people crowding the area. If given the opportunity to return to these Hot springs, I would jump on it. It is just too bad for us that Castle A.F.B. was closed. I’ll be back some day…..
Ronald, USA
08/05/1998- the road above Huntington Lake is rough,includes one-lane road with cliff drop-offs in some places. The road climbs to Kaiser Pass, where elevation is high and might ba a problem for some folks but after the Pass you drop down into Mono to about 6,5000-7,000ft. Accomodations are very rustic cabins, there is Mono Creek Campground whick is nice, has pit toilets. You might want to bring drinking water or fill containers at Huntington Lake (College Campground)as we do. Mono Hot Springs has a web page, so check it out, I must tell you that part of the charm of Mono is that it is less traveled and rustic. Nearby lakes such as Doris & Tule are beautiful, warm to swim in & a healthy hike from Mono Hot Springs. Mono is near Lake Edison and Florence Lake, about as far into the Wilderness as one can drive in California, both lakes you take a ferry across & hike into remote wilderness areas ( where lakes are Mediterranean Blue etc. There is still snow now at Kaiser Pass & above elevations. Go visit, especially if you have a good vehicle, don’t need to worry about the altitude, and love nature. I really like Grover Hot Springs (pools are okay). It is so beautiful & Markleville is a cute town, good fishijng nearby.
Alysia
07/31/98- massage is available at the bath house by Mary Pat O’Rourke, by appointment. We were just there last week.
ALYSIA